En route, our journey took us past the Pyrenees mountains. The white caps from snow fall blanketed much of the peaks and mountainsides. Clouds struggled to pass the peaks; their white fluffy grace falsely giving rise from the snow, sharing their journey as if the snow had released itself into another form and rose from the mountain tops to escape the rugged terrain. The patchy blue sky allowed the sun to shine through and in the far distance upon the horizon the flat clouds shimmered between the ground and the sky, the ocean lapping the edges of the continent. 

Check in at our hotel, H10 Urquinaona Plaza around 10am proved too early, as our room wouldn't be ready until 3pm, their normal check in time. Not a problem, we left our bags with the Porter and went out to explore Barcelona city. 

La Rambla

Turning right out of the hotel we discovered a square with two beautiful fountains and plenty of people. A little further down the street we stumbled across La Rambla, a famous tourist street of Barcelona. Reputed for its gathering of all peoples, creeds and cultures, I expected something a little more seedy, edgy, but upon our arrival it was filled with tourists, most likely expecting the same as us, market stands selling tourist souvenirs, beggars seeking a few coins for a bite to eat and artists selling their watercolours, oils and pencil and ink works. We discovered the Market, a place on our list to visit, as it's reputation and blog reviews were very positive, although its own website was poor to navigate. Needless to say, the Market was a bedazzling display of sights and smells, with so much food presented for sale and some market stalls with the ability to sit and eat at their stall. Each display a work of art in itself, of all foods you can think of, from bread to shellfish, chocolate to beef.  We bustled throughout the Market tempted on each corner. As we exited the Market, we saw a "Marilyn Monroe" waving, blowing kisses and moving about a balcony, momentarily, we realised it was the Erotica Museum. Passing the Erotica Museum, we meandered towards the harbour, where La Rambla meets Nelson's Column, just like the one in Trafalgar Square. 

The steps on the Harbour, leading down to the water's edge was a well received rest for these weary legs. A school of fish meandered by, taking no notice at the gaggle of humans looking down upon them.  A short walk along the harbour and a quick look at the many boats and we were back into the gothic quarter in search of nourishment. 

We landed in a lovely restaurant with called, Colom and took advantage of their advertised all day Princely menu of three courses with a glass of vino or coffee for the Pauper price of 9.40 euros. The unfortunate Waiter had to repeat himself a number of times through his Spanish lisp as he explained the menu to me, as it was only written in Spanish. His frustration coming through as Jermine attempted to assist with the interruption, the offending word, prawns, wasn't coming through clearly and with the other interruption of ham, no wonder the Waiter was frustrated and I confused; needless to say, I think the reader is also confused by this exchange. The food was exactly as we needed and wanted and the vino, divine.

By now it was time to check into our room, the lovely Sandra checked us in, with a private balcony room upgrade and a glass of bubbles to boot. Our expectations of this four star boutique hotel begins to exceed expectations. And the room is beautiful with it's three eye backlight wall artwork keeping an eye on all those who enter. A quick unpack and room explore, these weary travellers needed a quick kip before heading back out to explore Barcelona city and the gothic quarter.

The gothic quarter, the original city of Barcelona is a narrow meandering crisscross of early 16th century streets and housing. The natural light fails to meet the street, with the heat of the sun no where to be found; a relief on those balmy summer days. The streets barley wide enough for a small car to traverse it was every man for himself (herself) when it was time to clear a path. The delight of finding musicians around different corners in hidden public squares was a delight to the ear and an invitation to sit a while.

Dinner - Patagonia Wine and Beef

In Barcelona, everyone who is going out and eating out, do so very late at night. It's tradition and quite normal not to start your dinner, night out or what it is you choose to do, around 9:00pm onwards.  For me, eating dinner no later than 8:30pm is normal, usually either at 7:30 or 8:00pm.  This makes restaurant reservations, serving times and atmosphere tranquility a blessing.  

The problem with online reviews, you're reliant on complete strangers. The photos of the restaurant and food online looked almost five star. When we arrived the front desk was unmanned and the Waiters looked over worked as they hurried from table to kitchen to table. Twenty minutes later someone appeared and took us to a table, away from the kitchen, toilets and in a non-smoking section, no complaints as this is what I asked for in the online booking. A good time later a menu arrived and we were left to our own devices. Subtly attracting a Waiter's attention, we acquired a wine list. As we were to order the Argentine steaks, our entire purposes for being there, it was merely a decision on what type of red wine to order. Ordering a bottle of 2010 Syra, our Waiter brought over and opened a bottle of 2010 Shiraz.  Not wanting to create a problem, we accepted the mistake of the Waiter as our own choice and drank it anyway. Still, it was a good drop. 

The decor inside the restaurant didn't make sense. White linen table cloths, candles, silver wear, and good lighting, and then there are the oversized photo prints of the Pyrnees snow capped mountains and another of cattle grazing in a field. The Waiters, what could only be described as safari costume; cargo trousers, green collard shirts and shorts and brown leather shoes hurried from table to table. Something happened, to be honest, was only going to be a matter of time before it happened, and that was publicly dropping and smashing of a plate of food on the marble floor, the sounds crashing off the walls throughout the restaurant. That waiter eventually slowed down and resumed society.

The saving grace was the food. It was ok. The Argentine steaks, what the restaurant is renown for came through. We started with a mixture of panatomes for starters. Our mains, the steaks. With such good quality meat, to cook it anymore than medium rare, seems ludicrous ... rare to medium, please with pink in the middle. Leave the fat on and allow the meat to be soft from touch, perfecto. This is where the flavour and texture live.A side order of grilled vegetables complimented the man course very well, complimenting the flavours of the Argentine steak. I can say what I'm about to say, as I've been there; I still rate the Argentine steak in Turkey the best. But, here we are in Barcelona, so let's stick to the location.  All in all, the food was good, but the atmosphere really let the restaurant down. It's either a family run middle of the road restaurant trying too hard or it's a boutique establishment fallen down on it's sword.

Friday 15 April 2016

Breakfast

Down to the basement for breakfast, but it's not as dark and recluse a sit sounds. A well lit and appointed restaurant with all you could need for a hearty and fulfilling breakfast. Scrambled eggs (lactose free), toast, bacon, smoked salmon, Edam cheese slices, peach nectar (juice) and coffee, oh yes, coffee. Oh wait, then there was the apricot halves, thick pineapple slices and delicious strawberries and more peach nectar. My favourite source of entertainment was the breakfast waiter and all I could think of was Manuel from Faulty Towers.  With as many hotels I have stayed at over the years, I have come to know it's OK to ask for poached eggs. In fact, it's expected, otherwise they'd dry out if they sat on a heated plate. This morning's waiter was entertaining to engage with and what's even funnier, he had no idea how humorous he was.  He approached me, as he could see I was looking for something. I asked if he's able to bring me two poached eggs. With a look of bemusement on his face, he takes me over to the scrambled eggs. With him pointing at them, I say, no, that's scrambled eggs.  He then takes me over to the boiled eggs. No, they're boiled eggs. Do you have poached eggs? Next to the scrambled eggs were the fried eggs. With him pointing at them, I say no, they are fried eggs. Do you have poached eggs? What - he asks. That's what did it for me. It was the Faulty Towers, "What?"  Could you ask the Chef, please? I ask. He looks even more confused. I seriously had to restrain myself from saying, the person wearing the tall white hat shouting out food orders.  Just then another waiter comes to our rescue. Poached eggs? She checks with the Chef who happens to enter the restaurant from the kitchen. Thank goodness I didn't tell my entertainment source, the person wearing the tall white hat, as she was wearing a white cap. No. Confirmed. No poached eggs, we don't offer these. The scrambled eggs are lactose free, it's confirmed, so, they are safe for me. Such fun.

La Sagrada Familia

Out of the hotel and down the stairs to the underground trains, in London, fondly known as the Tube. Easy enough to navigate our way through the underground train system, we find ourselves at La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona's most famous tourist attraction. Akin to most ticketed tourist attractions, there is a staggered timed entrance time, ours being at 10:30am. This system of timed tickets allows for quicker flow of queue times and on this occasion removed a waiting time all together. Best to book your tickets online directly from the La Sagrada Familia website and skip the ticket booth queue; there are a number of ticket options. 

Gaudi started the building phase of this monumental family home in the 1860s, spending a good 40 years of his life dedicated to this one structure. There are other buildings in Barcelona city dedicated to his name, yet La Sagrada Familia is his most famous architectural design and build. Building continues on this structure, unfinished at the time of his death*, struck down by a tram and he died three days later. 

The mix of gothic and modern architecture design on the outside of the building, to me, signifies his many artistic designs and thoughts, and although somewhat contemporary of his time, the outside of the building is a mixture of what looks like dragons and melting rock, and religious motifs and Jesuit stories of carrying the Cross and decipals praying or begging for forgiveness. Needless to say, the outside structure is somewhat impressive and confusing. 

Once inside, your breath is taken away by the sheer height of the marble columns leading up to the artistic designs of precious stones, gold flecks and natural light. The ceiling seems to be almost touching the sky and it's impressive design seems light and effortless. 

Either side of the long structure, stained glass windows tell a story of the four seasons, Barcelona's people and its natural surroundings. Don't expect a religious theme in the stained glass, yet be impressed and dazzled by the deliberate colour scheme illuminating each side in either a deep array of blues and greens, and the other side in a rich array of reds, oranges and yellows. Natural light baths the marble floor and columns in a rich kaleidoscope of colour. On either side, above the windows of many colours are two mezzanine levels with yet to be finished chorister seating facing the centre of the Chapel. Above the chorister seating are cat walks leading to impressive staircases, at either end, swirling down to the ground, a hefty distance to terra-firma. 

A public Chapel sits top centre on the ground floor, a private Chapel in the basement level and a prayer room behind the ground floor Chapel. A monument to Christ on the Cross adorns the Chapel, with an umbrella over the top, of the monument. Above the Chapel are two of the towers, and a belfry. 

Strategically dotted about the inside of the building are religious motifs and solitary figures looking down upon all those who share their visit. 

The most enjoyable reminiscent moment about this structure was the lack of overly passive aggressive religious overtones. Although present and clearly visible, unlike the Cathederal in Cologne, Siena or Marseille, the inclusive free flowing vision of Gaudi allows the visitor to understand they are in a building with religious motifs without being constantly struck over the head by it, nor suffocating, or feeling browbeaten and lumbered by it.

*** Hop On Hop Off Bus ***

Osmosis Restaurant - 5 course taster menu 

It's customary for the city to come alive late at night.  Nine-thirty in the evening and we're here for dinner. Thank goodness we decided to be a little more dressy tonight, as the atmosphere, aproned waiters and other well-heeled guests set the tone for a beautiful evening. We were escorted upstairs into a formal part of the restaurant, very contemporary in its style with modern touches of industrial decorations mixed with artistic flare; family photos, wine and books. 

*** Insert descriptions of each plates ***

We were here to indulge in the 5 course tasting menu and bottle of their best red. Of course.   Upon delivery of each meal came a description of the meal sitting in front of us, a refresh of our wine glass and with a smile, they were gone. Nothing was rushed, the waiting staff kept subtle eye on proceedings and a distance and allowed us to enjoy our food, the wine and the atmosphere of the restaurant. After a long day of La Sagrada Familia and the Hop On Hop Off bus tour routes, to enjoy a relaxed evening meal was exactly what was needed. 

Osmosis hit the mark, it expressed itself in a clear message. Every detail of the restaurant complimented each other. The support beams and curved natural stone ceilings were brought into the decoration of the restaurant with the support beams covered in an industrial silver foil, leaving the ceiling natural. The contrasts complimenting each other.  

Saturday 16 April 2016

Museum Picasso

The Museum Picasso is located in the Gothic quarter of Barcelona, amongst the winding narrow streets and compressed restaurants. The gothic quarter is a glimpse into the original city limits without the original city walls, having been pulled down decades ago to allow growth and new building of a expanding city. 

Having prebooked tickets and an audio guide online, we were quickly escorted to the entrance of where to pick up the self walking tour of the museum. The clerk at the audio guide desk took one look at us and asked, Japanese? Good to see there is a sense of humour amongst the people of the museum. The staff clearly enjoy their jobs, as at each corner staff were happy to assist with directions throughout the exhibition. 

The exhibition expands across five buildings starting with his very early works as a child, and his first academic works and sketches from college. Many of Picasso's works included his father in almost every major painting we undertook. His self portraits allowed a glimpse at the artists behind the canvas, yet one could easily mistaken the many paintings around the world to include the artist as the main subject.  As a writer, myself, I could relate to Picasso's frame of mind when searching for subjects to include in his works, having used his family members as his main subjects very early on in his artistic career. A soft and beautiful painting of his mother shows the connection he had with his mother. The dark and mysterious portrayal of his aunt clearly shows the relationship he had with this stern and fortuitous woman; a relative who clearly formed Picasso from a boy to a man. 

Think of it, whilst in Paris during the Avantgarde era of the late 1800s and early 1900s in the small cafes and restaurants in Montmartre home of the Moulin Rouge, walking the streets in search of subjects were Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh and many other artisans. Could you imagine a room full of artists in their early careers unwittingly knowing they would one day become world famous artists, each experiencing this city and expressing what they saw in their own way. Prostitutes, street beggars and the poor were easy pickings for subjects on the canvas. Young men experiencing such sights and sounds allowed their artistic minds to run wild and with enough coin to pay their subjects, anything was possible and by what is seen in Picasso's drawings and paintings, clearly, anything was possible. 

The collection of Still Life paintings were something special to see and a glimpse into his future work. He experimented with different styles and his Stylised pieces of faces were quite amusing.

Picasso's blue period was something special. The blue period of many artists holds something special and Picasso's rose period is something impressive to see. His African inspired art was something quite spectacular. I didn't think much of the cubist period, yet that is a personal choice. His work inspired by another artist, El Greco was quite dark and moody. When I first saw this work, I started to think, here we go, on the same journey as van Gogh. Guillaume Apollinaire, a poet was a long time friend of Picasso's and Guillaume featured in many of Picasso's work, which showed great humour in his surrealist work.

Picasso's sketches and studies have their own room on display and my favourite was a simple sketch called, Wise Man; a snooty-nosed man with a bemused look on his face as he studies an upside down canvas of a man. The fact the canvas of the man was upside down showed great humour, as the man looked bemused by this.  Something I didn't know about Picasso we're the ceramic works undertaken by him, although a small display of his works, he apparently completed many ceramic works of wine jugs, vases and bowls later on in his life. 

Picasso had many artistic friends throughout his artistic adult life sadly many died before their time and some disappeared into obscurity. 

*** Walk about the city and rest by the Hotel plunge pool and soak up the sun ***

Sunday 17 April

During our ramble about the city yesterday, we discovered the Terracotta Army exhibition at the Teatre Coliseum Barcelona and today we took advent of our prebooked-free day to spend a few hours learning about royalty Chinese history and tradition. Spending your life in the Court of the King and Queen no doubt had its privileges and advantages, but when the King passed away, it was expected his entire Court including families joined the King in his burial ground. You guess it, arsenic wine for everyone. King Qin decided to include 800 ceramic warriors to guard his tomb and were buried with him upon his death. Each standing six foot tall and weighing 300kg, all with individual faces, feet, hands and features were successfully completed within 10 years with arrowheads, swords and armour.  

Before embarking on the tour of the Terracotta Army, we were welcomed to watch a short 20-minute documentary on the history of China and how the warring Provenances were brought together to form one Provence, China and why the Terracotta Army was created. 

The Ruler of the Provence of China brought the surrounding Provinces together as one, obviously through conquering them and with one Ruler, the Provinces of China word together until the Ruler's death and approximately 62 years later the Provinces waged war on each other for 250 years. The tradition of burying the entire Court when the King passed away became a thing of the past, as there weren't enough people; population equals production. I would like to understand what happened after the 250 year war, but this is about the Terracotta Army, to protect the King in his after life. 

In short, to create 800 hand made coiled-clay 6ft tall, 300kg life sized men, it took about 80 craftsmen with 10 apprenticeship per each craftsman, at one soldier per month, the soldiers were completed in about 8 years. 

After a tour of China more than 2000 years in the past, it was time for lunch, a long sit down ... and a beer.